South-west of Tbilisi, between the capital and the Turkish border, is a region most first-time visitors skip and most second-time visitors love: the spa town of Borjomi, the ski village of Bakuriani, the restored castle of Akhaltsikhe and the cave city of Vardzia. It is 2.5 hours from Tbilisi on paved roads, works in any car category, and makes a perfect two or three-day loop on its own or as the first leg of a drive west to Kutaisi and Batumi.
Getting to Borjomi, Bakuriani and Vardzia
- From Tbilisi: 160 km, 2.5 hours. Take the E60 highway west, turn south at Khashuri and follow the Kura (Mtkvari) river gorge up to Borjomi. If you are picking up at the airport, allow 3 hours.
- From Kutaisi: 120 km via Zestafoni and Kharagauli, 2.5 hours on a quieter, hillier road, or 150 km via the highway and Khashuri.
- From Batumi: the Goderdzi pass road via Khulo and Adigeni is the scenic way to Akhaltsikhe (about 190 km, 5 hours). The pass is at roughly 2,000 m, partly unpaved and closed in winter; take a 4x4 and check conditions with us before you go.
Borjomi
Borjomi is the town behind the mineral water. The Central Park runs up a side valley from the town centre: drink the warm water straight from the spring, walk or take the cable car up to the plateau, and follow the path 3 km further to the outdoor hot sulphur pools. The town itself has a pretty station, Romanov-era villas and the small but good local museum. Stay one night; two if you want to hike.
Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park begins just outside town: one of Europe's largest protected areas, with marked trails from a day walk to a multi-day crossing and a visitor centre in Likani where you register and get maps. The Green Monastery (Chitakhevi), 10 km from Borjomi, is a quiet 9th-century church in the forest beside a stream.
Bakuriani
30 km and 40 minutes above Borjomi, Bakuriani is Georgia's family ski resort in winter (December to March, gentler slopes than Gudauri, good for beginners and children) and a cool hiking base in summer. The narrow-gauge "Kukushka" railway between Borjomi and Bakuriani is one of the world's slowest and prettiest train rides if you want a car-free day. The road up is paved; in winter it is cleared, but snow chains or a 4x4 are sensible after a big snowfall.
Akhaltsikhe and Rabati Castle
50 km south-west of Borjomi (1 hour), Akhaltsikhe is the regional town, and its Rabati fortress was rebuilt in 2012 into a walled complex of mosque, church, synagogue, museum, gardens and cafes on the hill above the town. Allow two hours. The town is also the last place for a full range of shops and fuel before Vardzia and the Turkish border at Vale.
Vardzia cave city
60 km south of Akhaltsikhe along the upper Kura, past the fortress of Khertvisi at the river junction, the road ends at Vardzia: a 12th-century monastery town of several hundred rooms, churches and tunnels carved into a cliff, built under Queen Tamar. You climb through the complex on stairs and tunnels, so wear proper shoes and go early in summer (the cliff faces south). Nearby, the Vanis Kvabebi caves are a smaller, wilder version, and the Sapara Monastery above Akhaltsikhe is worth the 12-km detour on the way back. Round trip from Borjomi to Vardzia and back is a full day: about 220 km and 5 hours of driving plus the visits, so consider sleeping in Akhaltsikhe or at one of the guesthouses opposite the caves.
Suggested Borjomi, Bakuriani and Vardzia itinerary
- Day 1: Tbilisi to Borjomi via the Kura gorge (stop at Gori and Uplistsikhe on the way if you leave early). Afternoon in Central Park and the hot pools.
- Day 2: Akhaltsikhe and Rabati in the morning, Khertvisi and Vardzia in the afternoon, night in Akhaltsikhe or Vardzia.
- Day 3: back to Borjomi and up to Bakuriani for a walk or a ski, or continue west to Kutaisi (from Borjomi via Kharagauli, 2.5 hours) and on to Batumi.
Practical notes for Borjomi and Vardzia
- All of the above is on paved roads except the Goderdzi pass from Batumi. A sedan is fine for the loop from Tbilisi; a 4x4 gives more comfort in winter.
- Fuel up in Borjomi or Akhaltsikhe; there is nothing at Vardzia.
- Winter: Borjomi and Bakuriani are open and popular; Vardzia is quieter and can be icy on the stairs.
- Turkey is 25 km from Akhaltsikhe at the Vale crossing, but our cars cannot leave Georgia except for Armenia with advance notice.
Going somewhere else? This loop links easily to Gori, Kutaisi, the coast, and the Ninotsminda road to Armenia. If your route is different, or you want to combine several regions, message us on WhatsApp (+995 591 89 60 60) and we will plan a custom route with you: the right car for the roads, pickup and drop-off in different cities, and honest advice on driving times.
Planning the drive? Our guide Borjomi, Bakuriani and Vardzia by car has the two-day plan, distances, parking and which car to take.